June, 2008

Zoriah: War Photographer Diaries - The Checkpoint

We are on a mission in Sadr City to inspect some of the checkpoints along the newly completed wall. The first part of the mission brings us to the infamous Jamilla Market, an outdoor stretch of shops and home to some of the worst fighting in the entire war. The market suffered heavily and many shop owners are now facing repairs that they could never possibly afford. It has made an impossible situation even worse for many.

 Iraq Diary -- The Checkpoint

The new checkpoint is nothing more than a gap in the wall allowing individuals to pass after being thoroughly searched and often harassed. We watch as one US soldier violently pokes a man with metal detecting wand, asserting his power and control in an inhumane way. One of the soldiers in my platoon comments on how he is out of line and doing a disservice to the Army, but nothing is said or done to stop it and we continue on our way.

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Walls and checkpoints are usually a recipe for human rights violations and cruelty, but for the moment the checkpoints at least offer hope for the merchants to recover, and for the residents of Sadr City to purchase necessities such as groceries and other supplies. As usual, the individuals struggling to live their lives in between the two sides at war suffer the most.

zoriah_iraq_war_baghdad_sadr_city_woman_shopping_soldiers.jpg photographs and words by Zoriahwww.zoriah.com

Zoriah: War Photographer Diaries - The Message

Zoriah: War Photographer Diaries – Into the Mouth of Madness

Into the Mouth of Madness

words and photographs by Zoriah

It’s mid afternoon and the sun is struggling to find its way through millions of tiny particles kicked up in today’s sand storm, casting a yellow haze and ominous glow across Baghdad. I am with a platoon of US Army soldiers. We are gathering our flak vests, helmets and protective gear and heading out to a group of armored vehicles.

zoriah_iraq_war_baghdad_soldiers_mission_sand_storm

After a short briefing about the mission.......

Zoriah: War Photographer Diaries – Into the Mouth of Madness

Into the Mouth of Madness

words and photographs by Zoriah

It’s mid afternoon and the sun is struggling to find its way through millions of tiny particles kicked up in today’s sand storm, casting a yellow haze and ominous glow across Baghdad. I am with a platoon of US Army soldiers. We are gathering our flak vests, helmets and protective gear and heading out to a group of armored vehicles.

zoriah_iraq_war_baghdad_soldiers_mission_sand_storm

(click here to read the rest of Zoriah's diary entry)

Zoriah: Iraq War Diary – Into the Mouth of Madness

(click the photo above or here to see Zoriah's photo series)

I catch an early helicopter flight from the Green Zone into Sadr City, Baghdad. The flight is uneventful although the Blackhawk helicopter does shoot out a series of heat flares, which are designed to repel rocket attacks by distracting the missiles from the aircraft by giving it another source of heat to follow. I never saw a rocket come near us, but that makes little difference, it still feels like a close call.

I arrive at Combat Outpost Old Mod and watch the helicopters fly away. This will be my home for the next few weeks. Old Mod is a compound of Iraqi buildings which used to be the Iraqi Ministry of Defense Complex. Now, the buildings have been fortified and house primarily Iraqi Army troops and a US Army MITT (Military In Transition Team) who are tasked with monitoring and training their Iraqi Army counterparts.

I am told that the day before my arrival a dump truck full of rockets exploded nearby and took out several city blocks of homes and killed dozens. They suggest that this could mean a possible upturn in violence in the area, but that the cease-fire brokered between the US and Muktad El Sadr may provide the opposite effect. Only time would tell.

Life around the camp is typical. There are frequent and sustained power outages and people learn how to live in the dark. Meals are eaten by flashlight, and ghostly LED torches illuminate the gym. The hallways are dark, with spikes of light near the few open doors.

The guards pass time resting on sandbags and it feels like boredom must be one of the hardest aspects of life here. I have to remind myself that choices were made by these individuals and not by the Iraqi people. What I have seen outside the bases far surpassed the minimal discomforts experienced here.

As the sun goes down and the temperature cools to about 100f/37.7c, soldiers wander outside and start up games of basketball, play cards or just walk around to escape their drab living quarters.

I am so exhausted I can barely walk, so anywhere I can sleep is fine with me. I have to charge my batteries, attach a few extra Kevlar panels to my vest and prepare the rest of my gear…at any moment all hell may break loose. Being ill prepared is not an option.

War Photographer Diaries – Zoriah: Return to Baghdad ER

After nearly a year I have returned to the Baghdad ER, now the US Army 86th Combat Support Hospital.  Still the busiest combat hospital in Iraq, and most likely the world, it is home to some of the military’s best doctors and medics as well as an unending stream of some of the most horrific battle casualties imaginable.
Zoriah Iraq War Baghdad Er Trauma Ied Mine Explosion Doctors
  Working in Baghdad ER requires a constant presence by a military public affairs officer and this year my guide is Captain McKinnie.  One of those people who you instantly like, McKinnie was kind and humorous, and addicted to JellyBelly “butter popcorn” flavored jelly beans.  Stopping every few of minutes to pull a couple out of her pocket, at one point McKinnie picked a dropped jelly bean off of the ER floor, shouting out “THREE SECOND RULE, THREE SECOND RULE!!!!!!” then popped it into her mouth and swallowed.  It takes a lot to shock me, so she deserves some sort of medal.  Unfortunately, the rest of the day was not so amusing and pleasant.
  A flurry of commotion coming from the trauma ward means that something is going on.  We rush in to find a ten-year-old Iraqi boy on a stretcher with his organs hanging out of his stomach, which is severed from his mid-chest down to his pelvis.  He has no pulse and a doctor is administering frenzied, yet deliberate, chest compressions, while five or more other doctors and medics perform different duties.
Zoriah Iraq War Baghdad Er Emergency Trauma Medi Surgery-1
Zoriah Iraq War Baghdad Er Trauma Ied Mine Explosion Medic
  After several minutes they are able to stabilize the boy enough to transfer him upstairs to surgery.  We follow along and spend the next hour in the surgery ward as surgeons remove the boy’s organs, setting them aside as they dig large chunks of shrapnel out of the boy’s body.  For the time being they must ignore that fact that one of his hands is also missing and focus on the more pressing injuries.
Zoriah Iraq War Baghdad Er Trauma Ied Mine Explosion Blood
  Finally he is stabilized and shrapnel is, for the most part, removed.  We find out from the boys uncle, who is obviously quite close to him and visibly distraught, that he had been out playing on the street when he stumbled on a land mine or improvised explosive device (IED.)  The doctor’s efforts were noble and both Captain McKinnie and myself were impressed that they were able to save the boy.  We take a deep breath and head out to get lunch.
Zoriah Iraq War Baghdad Er Trauma Ied Mine Explosion Boy-1
  After lunch we return to the ER to find the young boys uncle hanging out of a window screaming, crying and rocking back and forth.  The nurse looks at us and shakes her head…they boy died shortly after the first surgery and they were not able to bring him back.  As everyone stood back, watching the man sob, I put down my camera and held the man as he cried. I sat next to him with my arm around his shoulder, as he spoke in Arabic, rocked back and forth and hit himself in the face.  I could feel the boys dried blood on his shirt…the reality of being back in Iraq had become terribly clear.

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Zoriah - Iraq War Diary

After three days in Ali Al Salem Air Base in Kuwait, it is finally
time to leave for Baghdad. It is 5:45 in the morning and I am sitting
in a large hanger waiting for news on the flight. I sneak off now and
then to shoot a bit more of the latrine graffiti, as people found it
suspicious when I would just stand in the bathroom with my cameras out
waiting for stalls to open up.

Finally it is confirmed that we are leaving and after three more
hours of waiting and formalities, we are shuttled out to a landing zone
and led onto a large military airplane.
We are herded on like cattle and cramped into hanging mesh seats.
There is no air-conditioning and the thermometer on my watch reads
121f/49.4c. I look at the faces of the people on the plane with me as
the last remaining light is cut off by the closing doors.
After a little over an hour, we arrive at Baghdad International
Airport, known here is BIAP. Although the actual airport can be seen
in the distance, the military flights land on the opposite end of the
complex and drop us off near a series of hangers where incoming troops
are processed and transferred to other locations. I will end up stuck
in the hanger for the next half day, waiting for a helicopter to the
Green Zone.

Zoriah - Iraq War Diary

After forty-seven hours of travel time, I have arrived in Kuwait. Originating in Denver and stopping in Washington DC, New York City, Amsterdam and finally Kuwait. The journey was made virtually unbearable by toothache which made tears stream down my cheeks for a good part of those forty-seven hours. I was able to access my checked luggage in New York City and took out a bottle of pain killers but the Vikodin, Percoset and Tylenol with codeine did little to numb the pain…they just made my stomach upset and made it hard to walk. Kuwait is the main point of transfer or US soldiers and contract workers entering Iraq. It is not much to look at, a massive sea of beige sand, beige buildings and an often beige sky thanks to the numerous sand storms. The military base, Ali Al Salem, is even worse, hundreds of beige tents and camo-netting surrounded by airstrips and compounds. We arrive at the base late and I beg whoever I can find to help me with my tooth. I am taken to an Army Colonel who, after about forty-five minutes of fierce tugging is able to pull the tooth out. Now I have a huge hole in my mouth, but the pain is gone so it seems to be a fair trade. Now it is time to play the waiting game, showing up several times a day at ungodly hours for info on flights into Iraq. Plans get changed often due to sandstorms and other reasons, one of which, I believe, is to remain inconsistent to avoid rocket attacks on the planes. It looks like we will be leaving for Baghdad at 5:45 tomorrow morning, only a few hours away. Photography in Ali Al Salem is strictly forbidden, but I spent most of today shooting pictures without causing damage to America’s security. Some graffiti on the wall in the latrines caught my eye, so I went from stall to stall and photographed more than 60 toilette stalls. Ranging from profane and racist to funny, poetic philosophical, it was an interesting glimpse into the minds of the soldiers heading into, and out of Iraq. I cant sleep and am sitting in my cot trying to get some work done. I now have an infection in my left and look like I have been beaten (the missing tooth probably fills in the image perfectly.) I went to the shower trailer and put some antibiotic ointment on my eye but then got caught in a sandstorm on the way back to my tent. Now I have an infected eye covered with sandy ointment. None of this is unusual.